To the unsuspecting tourist, the province of Nam Dinh may not immediately catch the eye. Tucked away in the Red River Delta, Nam Dinh is renowned for its picturesque churches and bountiful agricultural landscapes. But beyond its charming facade lies Nam Dinh’s greatest contribution to Vietnamese cuisine – the iconic beef noodle soup known as pho.
The Legendary Origins of Pho
Vietnamese history, like many ancient tales, is veiled in legends and myths. The same holds true for pho, Vietnam’s most famous dish and culinary export. In the bustling capital city of Hanoi, pho takes center stage as a beloved breakfast staple.
From the crack of dawn, pho stalls line the sidewalks, enveloped in billows of steam. Each bowl of pho is meticulously assembled to order. Steaming broth is poured over a bed of tender rice noodles and thinly sliced beef, then garnished with fragrant herbs and chives. Diners can customize their bowls with squeezes of lemon, slices of red chili, sprigs of basil, and dollops of hoisin sauce. It’s an experience that no visit to Vietnam is complete without.
While Nam Dinh is considered the geographical birthplace of pho, it is in Hanoi where this iconic dish truly found its spiritual home. The convergence of historical and cultural influences in Hanoi contributed to the popularization of pho.
A Historical Evolution
The story of pho traces back to the late 19th century, during the height of French colonialism. Increased demand for beef from the French led to a surplus of beef bones in Vietnam. Resourceful Chinese and Vietnamese vendors in Nam Dinh utilized these bones to enrich and enhance the flavor of their broth.
Over time, pho gained traction in Hanoi, transforming from a simple noodle soup called “xao trau” – made with slices of water buffalo meat and rice vermicelli – into a delicate, balanced creation. Buffalo meat was replaced with beef, round rice noodles were introduced, and the broth’s flavor was refined, resulting in the classic Hanoi pho we know today.
Migrant workers from Chinese provinces such as Yunnan and Guangdong were particularly drawn to this new incarnation of pho due to its resemblance to dishes from their homelands. The Vietnamese, having developed a taste for beef, also embraced this evolution. By the 1930s, mobile pho vendors, known as “ganh pho,” had become ubiquitous in the streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
Pho: A Culinary Legacy
Pho has since become deeply ingrained in the Vietnamese psyche. In his poem “An Ode to Pho,” poet Tu Mo celebrated the soup’s subtle flavors and its universality – loved by both the rich and the poor.
Throughout Vietnam’s tumultuous history, pho has weathered the storms of privation and migration. When the country was divided in 1954, pho made its way south alongside millions of northerners, resulting in regional variations. Chefs in the south sweetened the broth and introduced an array of accompanying herbs, hoisin sauce, and chili sauce. The debate between the northern and southern versions of pho continues, but both are undeniably delicious.
While the dish has seen some innovations, such as the use of brown rice noodles or the addition of luxury ingredients like truffle oil, wagyu beef, and foie gras in high-end establishments, the essence of pho remains true to its origins. Different cuts of beef, including rare beef (tai), flank (nam), brisket (gau), tripe (sach), tendon (gan), and meatballs (bo vien), offer various options for customization. The introduction of chicken pho (pho ga) caused quite a stir in 1939, and in Central Vietnam, pho can even be enjoyed with poached eggs.
Paying Homage to Pho
Pho’s enduring popularity lies in its comforting and harmonious combination of flavors. Whether eaten on a bustling street corner or in an elegant restaurant, the slow-cooked broth, simmered with beef bones, flank steak, oxtails, charred onion, ginger, and aromatic spices like star anise, cinnamon, cloves, black cardamom, and coriander, remains the heart and soul of this beloved dish. In the north, pho is typically garnished with fresh chili slices, lemon wedges, and a few herbs, while in the south, it tends to be sweeter and presents a wider variety of options.
As one of the world’s classic noodle dishes, pho has rightfully earned its place among culinary legends.
Where to Enjoy Pho
- Pho in Hanoi: Pho Thin, 13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi
- Pho in Ho Chi Minh City: Pho Minh, 63/6 Pasteur St. District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
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